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天鵝絨的特點 Characteristics of velvet

發布時間:2023-03-09      點擊次數:942

天(tian)鵝(e)(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong),明清兩代最為(wei)興盛。有花天(tian)鵝(e)(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)和(he)素天(tian)鵝(e)(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)二種(zhong)。清·黃地蓮蝠紋(wen)漳(zhang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)墊料花天(tian)鵝(e)(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)是指將部(bu)分絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)按花紋(wen)割(ge)斷成(cheng)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)毛,使之與未斷的(de)線圈(quan)聯同(tong)構(gou)成(cheng)紋(wen)樣;而素天(tian)鵝(e)(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)則其(qi)表面全為(wei)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)。一(yi)(yi)般天(tian)鵝(e)(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)用蠶絲作原(yuan)料或作經線,以棉紗作緯線,再以桑(sang)蠶絲(或人造絲)起絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)。織(zhi)(zhi)造時,每織(zhi)(zhi)四(si)根(gen)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)線便織(zhi)(zhi)入(ru)一(yi)(yi)根(gen)起絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)桿(即(ji)(ji)(ji)細鐵絲),織(zhi)(zhi)到一(yi)(yi)定長度時即(ji)(ji)(ji)在機上用割(ge)刀沿鐵絲剖割(ge),即(ji)(ji)(ji)成(cheng)毛絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。毛絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)如何起是依紋(wen)樣設計。構(gou)成(cheng)織(zhi)(zhi)物的(de)紋(wen)樣有兩種(zhong)形式:一(yi)(yi)是絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)花緞(duan)地、即(ji)(ji)(ji)漳(zhang)緞(duan);一(yi)(yi)是絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)地緞(duan)花,即(ji)(ji)(ji)天(tian)鵝(e)(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。其(qi)特點(dian)是少有織(zhi)(zhi)地,有單、雙色,或嵌金銀線。

天鵝絨(rong)使用桑(sang)(sang)蠶絲作(zuo)原料也可用桑(sang)(sang)蠶絲作(zuo)經(jing),棉紗(sha)作(zuo)緯交(jiao)織(zhi)的(de)地組(zu)織(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang),以桑(sang)(sang)蠶絲或人造絲起絨(rong)圈。織(zhi)造時每織(zhi)四根絨(rong)線后織(zhi)入一根起絨(rong)桿(細鐵(tie)絲),織(zhi)到一定(ding)長度時(約(yue)20厘米左右(you)),即(ji)(ji)在機上(shang)(shang)(shang)用割(ge)刀沿鐵(tie)絲剖(pou)割(ge),鐵(tie)絲脫離織(zhi)物,則成(cheng)毛絨(rong)。此毛絨(rong)根據紋樣的(de)設計(ji),就能使紋樣清晰(xi)地顯示在緞面上(shang)(shang)(shang),并有光澤(ze)。構成(cheng)織(zhi)物的(de)紋樣有兩種形式,一種是(shi)絨(rong)花緞地,即(ji)(ji)漳緞;一種是(shi)絨(rong)地緞花,即(ji)(ji)天鵝絨(rong)。有單(dan)色(se)(se)和雙色(se)(se)之分(fen),富(fu)麗華貴,可做秋冬衣料或高級沙發套、窗簾等。


Velvet was most popular in the Ming and Qing dynasties. There are flower velvet and plain velvet.

Qinghuangdilotus bat pattern Zhangvelour cushion material

Qinghuangdilotus bat pattern Zhangvelour cushion material

Floral velvet refers to cutting part of the velvet ring into a pile according to the pattern, so that it is connected with the unbroken coil to form a pattern; Plain velvet, on the other hand, has a velvet ring on its surface. Generally, velvet is made of silk as raw material or warp thread, cotton yarn as weft thread, and mulberry silk (or rayon) as a pile ring. When weaving, every four wool threads will be woven into a velvet rod (i.e. fine iron wire), woven to a certain length, it will be cut along the iron wire with a cutter on the machine, that is, plush. How plush is designed according to the pattern. There are two forms of fabric pattern: one is velvet satin ground, that is, Zhangsatin; One is velvet, or velvet. Its characteristics are rarely woven, single, two-color, or embedded gold and silver thread.

Velvet using mulberry silk as raw material can also be used mulberry silk as warp, cotton yarn as weft interwoven on the ground organization, with mulberry silk or rayon velvet circle. When weaving, a raising rod (fine iron wire) is woven into every four wool threads. When it reaches a certain length (about 20 cm), it is cut along the iron wire with a cutter on the machine. When the iron wire is separated from the fabric, it becomes plush. This plush, according to the design of the pattern, can make the pattern clearly displayed on the satin surface, and glossy. There are two forms of fabric pattern, one is velvet satin ground, that is, Zhangsatin; One is velour, or velvet. There are monochrome and two-color points, rich and luxurious, can do autumn and winter clothing material or senior sofa cover, curtains, etc.


上一條:天鵝絨的歷史 History of velvet
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